Bangkok is famous for its paralyzing traffic jams. Sitting in a taxi on Sukhumvit Road, watching the meter tick up while you haven’t moved an inch in ten minutes, is a rite of passage. But to understand how this city actually breathes, you have to remember that before the concrete roads were built, Bangkok was a city of water.
Location – Bangkok Noi Canals (Khlongs)
Time – 04:00 PM
Temperature – 32°C (89°F) and humid
Mood – Adventurous and wind-blown
Soundtrack – The deafening roar of an exposed truck engine on a wooden boat
It was the “Venice of the East.” I wanted to see that hidden city, so I walked down to the muddy banks of the Chao Phraya River and hired a Longtail Boat.
The Beast on the Water
A Thai longtail boat (Ruea Hang Yao) is a bizarre and brilliant piece of engineering. It is essentially a sleek, colorful wooden canoe. But attached to the back, completely exposed to the open air, is a massive, incredibly loud car or truck engine. The propeller is at the end of a long metal pole, allowing the driver to navigate the shallow, debris-filled waters with surgical precision.
I sat near the front, balancing on a wooden bench. The driver pulled a cord, the engine roared to life with a deafening, mechanical scream, and we shot out into the wide, choppy waters of the main river.
The Hidden Backwaters (The Khlongs)
We didn’t stay on the main river for long. The driver steered the boat sharply to the right, and we entered a narrow waterway called a Khlong.
Instantly, the modern skyscrapers disappeared. The canals are a completely different world. The water is a dark, murky brown. On both sides, there are old wooden houses built on stilts directly over the water. Some are practically collapsing, their porches sagging dangerously close to the waterline. Right next to them, you will see massive, modern concrete mansions with private boat docks.
I saw women hanging laundry on their floating porches. I saw groups of kids swimming in the murky water, waving at the boat as we sped by. I even saw massive, two-meter-long water monitor lizards sunbathing on the concrete retaining walls, looking like miniature dinosaurs.
The Verdict
Riding a longtail boat through the Khlongs is not a luxurious river cruise. It is loud. The engine fumes will get in your nose, and you will probably get splashed with questionable river water. But it is an absolute thrill. It strips away the glossy, neon facade of modern Bangkok and shows you the raw, working-class roots of a city that was built on top of a swamp.
My “Eat Walk Repeat” Note for Today
Eat – Occasionally, a tiny wooden boat paddled by an old woman will pull up right next to your longtail. Buy a cold beer or some sliced mango directly from the water.
Walk – Ask your driver to drop you off at a local pier on the Thonburi side of the river instead of going back to the center. Walk through the narrow, completely untouristed alleyways back to a main bridge.
Repeat – Negotiate the price hard before you get in the boat. The first price they offer at the tourist piers is always a massive trap.
Explore More of My Bangkok Diaries
If you enjoyed this diary, check out the rest of my Bangkok series to see the city beyond the typical tourist paths
🍽️ Eat & Drink
- Bangkok Food Diaries The Chaos and Fire of Yaowarat Road
- Escaping the Humidity at a Sukhumvit Rooftop Bar
🎟️ Things To Do
- The Golden Overload Surviving the Heat at the Grand Palace
- The Canal Diary Riding a Longtail Boat Through the Backwaters
🗺️ Itineraries
- The Temple Route Staring at the Giant Reclining Buddha
- The Weekend Labyrinth Getting Hopelessly Lost in Chatuchak Market
🚇 Essentials
- The 7-Eleven Oasis Surviving Bangkok’s Relentless Humidity
- The Tuk Tuk Trap Negotiating the Neon Traffic
🏘️ Neighborhoods
- Khao San Road Diaries The Loud Sticky Heart of Backpacker Asia
- Sukhumvit Diaries Neon Malls and the Modern Metropolis
🌦️ Seasonal
- Bangkok in the Monsoon Surviving the Sudden Downpours
- Bangkok in April The Madness of the Songkran Water Festival
